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Cley

Cley-next-the-Sea lies on the North Norfolk Coast between Blakeney and Salthouse. In the 13th century Cley was ranked as England's 4th most important port and shipped large quantities of wool to the Low Countries. In the 17th century, however, the village was permanently cut off from the sea when the land in front of it was reclaimed and an embankment was built. Today the village is very prone to tidal surges that breach the embankment.

St. Margaret's, Cley

St. Margaret's Church

St Margaret's Church at Cley - which is a magnificent building commanding a view of the Glaven valley - may have provided the inspiration for the church in Jack Higgins' The Eagle Has Landed. In the book, the author is searching for the grave of a 17th century sea captain in the fictional churchyard of Studley Constable. This may well have been based on Capt James Greeves who is buried at Cley. It is beneath this tombstone that he discovers the hidden graves of Kurt Steiner and 13 German paratroopers who were sent, according to the story, to assassinate Winston Churchill. Many of the headstones at Cley have skulls and hour-glasses carved onto them - a fact which is also mentioned in the novel.

It is not possible to say exactly which North Norfolk village Studley Constable is based on but Cley, Salthouse and Blakeney are all strong contenders. Higgins describes it as follows:
 

'Everything about Studley Constable was intriguing. It was one of those places that seem to turn up in North Norfolk and nowhere else. The kind of village that you find by accident one day and can never find again, so that you begin to question whether it ever existed in the first place.'

My own poem Ornithologist is set on the marshes at Cley - close to where the new Norfolk Wildlife Trust visitor's centre is located. The centre affords a wonderful panoramic view of the reedbeds and is well worth a visit. Where else can you watch avocet, widgeon and little egrets while sipping a latte?
 
Ornithologist

Over the roof of the hide the seed plumes dance.
The hinged flap is up and he focuses
On the pool under the reed expanse.

Waders duck and scurry leaving prints
On the shining mud. His mind turns to the time
When leaning here he pointed out the red shank

Or the speck of the warbler, and felt fortunate.
Even the cold touch of her ring coming back
From the storm beach under the swooping terns

Could not break that. Now the sea has reshaped
The beach - taken the stones lower
And the hide, empty of her scent, echoes

With the perfect logic of her situation.
"I understand, believe me, I understand."
He shifts the binoculars to his other hand.


Cley Windmill is one of Norfolk's most iconic landmarks - perched on the edge of the village overlooking the reedbeds and saltmarshes. It has been a popular subject for artists and photographers for many years. It is now a B&B but was once owned by James Blunt's parents. Here is a picture of it that I took in March sunlight:

cley windmill

Cley Windmill
 

Links:

Cley Village Website

Cley Marshes

St. Margaret's Church

Cley Windmill

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