Winterton-on-Sea
Winterton lies on the Norfolk coast between Hemsby
and Horsey. The village is
dominated by the tower of Holy Trinity Church which
rises to the height of 132 feet. Winterton has a long
history as a sea-faring and fishing village and also
lies on a notoriously dangerous stretch of coast. The
churchyard of Holy Trinity is littered with the graves
of sailors who died at sea - and inside there is a
Fisherman's Corner established by the Rev. Clarence
Porter who, himself, drowned while attempting to save a
choir boy.

Holy Trinity Church, Winterton

Winterton Ness
Daniel Defoe (1660-1731)
In his A Tour Through the Whole Island of Great
Britain (1724-6) Daniel Defoe was well aware of
Winterton's reputation and wrote:
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'The danger to ships going northwards is, if after
passing by Winterton they are taken short with a
north-east wind, and cannot put back into the Roads,
which very often happens, then they are driven upon the
same coast, and embayed just at the latter. The dangers
is this place being thus considered, 'tis no wonder,
that upon the shore beyond Yarmouth, there is no less
than four light-houses kept flaming every single
night....' |
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Daniel Defoe
It is no coincidence, then, that it is also at
Winterton that Robinson Crusoe experiences his first
shipwreck. Fortunately though he manages to reach the
shore in a rowing boat and make his way back to
Yarmouth on foot. Robinson Crusoe was first published in 1719
and is widely regarded as the first English novel.
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'While we were in this condition, the men yet labouring
at the oar to bring the boat near the shore, we could
see (when, our boat mounting the waves, we were able to
see the shore) a great many people running along the
strand, to assist us when we should come near; but we
made slow way towards the shore; nor were we able to
reach the shore till, being past the lighthouse at
Winterton, the shore falls off to the westward, towards
Cromer, and so the land broke off a little the violence
of the wind. Here we got in, and, though not without
much difficulty, got all safe on shore, and walked
afterwards on foot to Yarmouth...' |
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Wilkie Collins (1824-1889)
While researching his novel Armadale (1866) - Collins visited Winterton and
fell in love with a local
girl called Martha Rudd - who later returned to London
with him and became his partner.
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Sam Larner (1878-1965) The folk singer and
fisherman Sam Larner lived in Winterton and there is now
a blue plaque on the wall of his former cottage. Sam was
discovered in 1956 by a BBC radio producer from
Birmingham who recorded 25 of his songs. Sam learnt most
of his songs - some of which were a bit risqué
- from fishermen he worked with on the drifters. He is best known for
Now Is The Time For Fishing. Ewan MacColl also wrote
The Shoals of
Herring about Larner's life.

Sam Larner's Cottage
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Sylvia Townsend Warner (1893-1978) The novelist Sylvia Townsend Warner visited Winterton
frequently staying at the Hill House which was once owned by
Valentine Ackland's family. The Hill House is now part
of the rather bizarre holiday centre which includes
African inspired thatched huts.

The Hill House today
Both Ackland and Townsend Warner wrote
poetry inspired by the beach and dunes at Winterton.
Here is Ackland on the subject: 'The dandling sea nursed
me, the sand was soft and gentle./ Larks sang and I was
unwatched for long hours of clear daylight.' The couple
later became gay lovers and lived for a time at both
Salthouse and
Sloley.
Trezza Azzopardi
Winterton also provided the setting for
Trezza Azzopardi's novel Winterton Blue. The two
main characters in the book make separate journeys to
the village looking for solutions to their problems.
Edwin Brock
There is a moving poem by Brock entitled Winterton:
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It is a sinking
into sand; marram grass
too sharp to lie on; eyes
stinging in the wind, and
a nerve in the cheek jumping
like an actor playing Dostoevsky.A few memories
remain:
the seal pup
dragging its wound up the beach
showing a ripped belly
and crying for help;
terns dive-bombing
the air above their nests;
the flotsam fox
bitten and chewed
scourged and scraped
but still recognisable
and always the grey North Sea
disappearing into a grey sky.
Beachcombing between the season's
limbs to discover
loneliness
or coming off the frost-crisp dunes
rejoicing in ownership.
Sixty-eight years should burst
the walls of a skull with this;
but mostly it drifts
like fine sand, or bangs
against the groynes whenever
the wind blows towards the land. |
The following anonymous rhyme presents a disparaging
view of the Winterton - and some of its neighbours:
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Pakefield for Poverty
Lowestoft for Poor,
Gorleston for Pretty Girls
Yarmouth for Whores,
Caister for Water Dogs
California for Pluck:
Beggar old Winterton -
How Black she do look! |
Links:
Holy Trinity Church
Sam
Larner
Sylvia
Townsend Warner |