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Cromer

Cromer lies on the North Norfolk coast between Sheringham and Overstrand and has been a popular seaside destination since the late 1700s. Today, Cromer has an air of decayed grandeur but it is still pulling in the visitors. Many come to walk along the pier or to sample some of its famous crabs.  The town also boasts the tallest church tower in Norfolk - as well as being the home of Henry Blogg - the coxwain of the local lifeboat who served for 37 years and saved 518 lives.

Photo by Sinead Kent

 

John Taylor (1580-1653)

In 1622 John Taylor, the Water Poet, was forced to land at Cromer due to bad weather; he was undertaking a 'wagering journey' from London to York. Unfortunately the town's folk of Cromer mistook him and his crew for pirates and called the constables. Taylor, later recorded the whole incident in verse. In the same poem he also records how Cromer, like most of the Norfolk coast, was even then under threat from erosion:
 

'It is an ancient town that stands
Upon a lofty cliff of mouldering sands;
The sea against the cliffs doth daily beat,
And every tide into the land doth eat.'

Daniel Defoe (1660-1731)

Defoe visited Cromer on his Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britain but wasn't over impressed by what he found:
 

'Cromer is a market town close to the shore of this dangerous coast. I know nothing it is famous for except good lobsters.'


Jane Austin (1775-1817)

In Emma - Emma's father tells her, when discussing sea-bathing that:
 

'You should have gone to Cromer, my dear, if you went any where - Perry was a week at Cromer once, and he holds it to be the best of all the sea-bathing places.'

Clement Scott (1841-1904)

The Victorian theatre critic did much to popularise Cromer and what he called 'Poppy-Land'. He visited in 1883 and then subsequently wrote a letter to the The Daily Telegraph which spoke of  'a blue sky without a cloud across it, a sea sparkling under a haze of heat, wild flowers in profusion'.

His enthusiasm for the area inspired a number of famous Victorian poets to visit - such as Oscar Wilde, A. C. Swinburne, Theodore Watts-Dunton and Alfred Tennyson.  Scott later rented Mill House in Sidestrand.

There is a memorial fountain to Clement Scott at the junction of the Northrepps Road and Overstrand Road in the town.

Scott Memorial Fountain

It was in Scott's poem the Garden of Sleep that the term 'Poppy-Land' first appeared. The tower mentioned in the poem was Craske's Tower located at nearby Sidestrand. The tower, which was a famous Norfolk landmark for many years, finally fell into the sea in 1917. The graveyard attached to the church also toppled into the sea.

Norfolk has lost a number of its churches to the sea - most famously at Eccles - and it was not uncommon for human bones to wash up on the beach.
 

The Garden of Sleep

On the grass of the cliff, at the edge of the steep,
God planted a garden - a garden of sleep!
'Neath the blue of sky, in the green of the corn,
It is there that the regal red poppies are born!
Brief days of desire, and long dreams of delight,
They are mine when Poppy-Land cometh in sight.
In music of distance, with eyes that are wet,
It is there I remember, and there I forget!
O! heart of my heart! where the poppies are born,
I am waiting for thee, in the hush of the corn.
     Sleep!     Sleep!
                   From the Cliff to the Deep!
                                 Sleep, my Poppy-Land,
                                                Sleep!

Read complete poem


Arthur Conan Doyle (1859-1930)

It is likely that Sir Arthur Conan Doyle used Cromer Hall as the inspiration for 'Baskerville Hall' in The Hound of the Baskervilles. It is also likely that he drew inspiration for the book from the Norfolk legend of Black Shuck - the terrible hell-hound with the fiery eyes. However, he eventually located the novel - to chilling effect - on Dartmoor.

Cromer Hall alias Baskerville Hall

Here is Conan Doyle's haunting description of Baskerville Hall:
 

'The avenue opened into a broad expanse of turf, and the house lay before us. In the fading light I could see that the centre was a heavy block of building from which a porch projected. The whole front was draped in ivy, with a patch clipped bare here and there where a window or a coat-of-arms broke through the dark veil. From this central block rose the twin towers, ancient, crenellated, and pierced with many loopholes. To right and left of the turrets were more modern wings of black granite. A dull light shone through heavy mullioned windows, and from the high chimneys which rose from the steep, high-angled roof there sprang a single black column of smoke.'

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
 

Edward Lear (1812-1888)

Wrote a famous limerick about the town:
 

There was an old person from Cromer
Who Stood on one leg to read Homer;
When he found he grew stiff, he jumped over the cliff
Which concluded that Person from Cromer.

Keith Skipper

The journalist and broadcaster Keith Skipper lives in Cromer and for many years has championed Norfolk and the Norfolk dialect. He has published over 30 books celebrating the county - including a tribute to The Singing Postman. In 1999 he helped to set up Friends of Norfolk Dialect (FOND) - an organisation dedicated to preserving the vernacular. It also fights the spread of of what he terms 'Mummerzet' - namely the inaccurate rendering of the Norfolk accent in film and TV. In 2007 he was awarded the MBE.
 

Links:

Cromer Pier

Cromer Lifeboat

Sherlock Holmes Society

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